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How To Flashing itel 1405
welcome this is the second video in the gaming rig series. today, i'll demonstrate several cooling and cosmetic modifications for nvidia graphics cards. the system i'm working on is fully air cooled and i'm using reference cards. there's a reason for that. reference-design cards are better for air-cooled systems because they exhaust hot air outthe back of the chassis. cards with custom pcbs are a poor choice for air cooling. they use an open design that floods the chassis with hot air. while the custom cards often overclock better thanks to additional circuitry
that lets you control several voltage options, they'll only reach their potential under water. today, i'll cover lapping to make the reference cooler more efficient, and removing the dvi connector to increase air flow. then i'll show you how to remove the green logo, and a simple way to make your cables tidier. when i'm done, the cards will overclock better, and they'll look better too. to begin, disassemble the card. i won't show it because it's repetitive. there are a lot of fasteners on this card, so a magnetic dish will come in handy. first, cover the gpu and other valuable bits of silicon with tissue padding
and duct tape to protect them from nicks andscratches while you work on the pcb. now i'll lap the heat exchanger's contactplate to improve heat transfer. i'll skip the lapping plate this time.the screw posts might catch the edges of the plate's fluid channels. the gpu is a bare silicon die.never attempt to lap bare silicon. i use a 320-grit water stoneto remove most of the plating. next, i use a lapped 1000-grit stone. i follow that with a lapped 2000-grit stone, which leaves a nice matte surface. clean the screw posts with compressed air.
clean the contact surface thoroughly,and repeatedly, with solvent. then apply a layer of thermal compound.wipe the compound away very gently with lint-free tissueslike kimwipes, leaving a thin filler coat. this will fill the fine scratches and delaysurface oxidation while you continue working. i covered the fine points of lapping, cleaning, and surface preparation at length in the first video of this series, so i won't dwell on it a second time. i'm going through it quickly here, but if you'd like to learn in depth aboutthe proper techniques, tools, and shop supplies, you'll find everything you need in video number one.
before i demonstrate the cosmetic modifications, i'm going to perform another cooling mod. as you can see, the dvi port restricts air flow through the card. the stock blower is able to move enough airto make this a bottleneck. half of the exhaust area is blockedcompletely by the dvi connector. if you don't use dvi, you can sacrificethe connector and bracket. removing them will permit a greatervolume of air to pass through the card. i'll be using a desoldering station. a high-speed rotary tool, and a pcb jig, all of which i recommendfor this job.
hot air is the most reliable way to deal with the lead free solder used in modernthrough-hole components. i can't use it here because my card has two display port connectors nestled under the dvi assembly. the bracket would store too much heat for too long a time and i'd desolder these components. if your dvi port is reasonably wellisolated, and you've got experience with hot-air desoldering, by all means use it. i would if i could. first, remove the cover from the dvi assembly. a small flat screwdriver willdisengage the catches. now, pry up the foil on the mounting stripsand snip the pins with flush cutters.
this is the easy part. next, i'll desolder the small pins. a desoldering tool like this is good because it can apply heat and vacuumat the same time. still, it's not ideal. lead-free solderwets very poorly. it's about 96% tin with a little silver and copper, and it melts to a semi frozen slush that's hard to remove, even with the best equipment. be prepared for a struggle. it helps if you ten your iron frequently. i also like to apply a generous amount of flux. there are a few pins that i'll have to drill later. when lead-free solder refuses to wet,
reheating it won't help. copper braid is useless too; save it for your final cleaning. adding fresh solder to the joint won't help either, although that often workswith surface-mount components. so, why not drill all of the pins? you can, but it's time consuming. desoldering is much faster, so i desolder first, then drill the fewstubborn ones that remain. now for the tricky part. i snipped the mounting pins, but some solder will remain between the bracket and the pads. also, you might find more joints fastening the dvi bracket,
depending on its design. desoldering them is virtually impossible. through-hole components are attached by wavesoldering so you'll find the pins buried in a puddle of hardened solder -- lead-freenightmare solder at that. and these are not through holes. look atthe mounting strips. you've got blind holes with, essentially, a heat sink on the other side. you're not going to desolder these joints. i suppose you could cut the bracket off,but that would be aggressive and unprofessional.
i prefer drilling. first, i snip off the fillets with flush cutters. then i use a countersink burr to indent the surface,to keep the drill bit from walking. now i'll drill out the solder.feed the bit slowly. the solder is soft butthe bracket behind is harder. if you feed the bit quickly, it might stall or get chipped when it encounters the harder metal. drilling out enough solder to undermine the joint without damaging the hole plating or the pads takes experience. if you're new to this, even if you've gotthe tools and skills, be sure to practice on junk components.
now i'll demonstrate the cosmetic mods.there are two crimes for which nvidia can never be forgiven.the first is this loathsome green logo. if you saw the first video, you'll know thati've chosen a very conservative black, gray, and silver color scheme.this visual pollution has got to go. the logo element and itselectroluminescent strip will come away in one piece. rub the green paint againsta sheet of sandpaper laid on a reasonably flat surface. apply pressure to one or two letters at a time, placing your finger behind them in turn.
take care not to hold the work pieceon an angle. as soon as you see the light gray color emerge, move on to the next letter. a small amount of green overspray is likely to remain on the edges here and there, but you can paint over it. don't try to rub away every bit of paint or you'll get letters with uneven heights. start with a mist coat of automotiveprimer for plastics, well thinned and applied very lightly. athick primer would act as a filler and spoil the fan shroud's texture. then lay down your base coat. as i peelaway the tape, you'll see that the gloss
level and color on the painted andunpainted sections of the shroud are a perfect match. this simple paint job is the easiest fixthat yields professional looking results, and i'm satisfied with it. but feel freeto get as clever as you please. if you decide to get creative, one thingyou mustn't do is leave the bezel open. seal it with something to prevent hot airfrom leaking into the chassis. nvidia's other crime is locating the powerconnectors on the front edge of the cards. drawing cables across the width of thechassis looks sloppy and amateurish, and worse, it interferes with air flow.
i won't bother with cosmetic touches like braided sleeves, because they only drawattention to the flaw. i'm chiefly concerned with improving the system's cooling performance, so i'll use simple ribbon cables with these gray cable mounts that suit my color scheme. the cables will still be ugly, but theywon't sag and interfere with air moving through the chassis. it's not an ideal solution, but it's all i can do with such a badly broken design. here's the reassembled card, nicely opened at the back. even with the mounting bracket installed,the improvement is obvious.
the cards are mounted.the logo is barely visible. the cables still disgust me, but at leastthey're out of the way. i've got the best possibleair flow through the chassis. all right, let's check the cooling performance. i'm using heaven 4.0 to place a load on the cards the settings are irrelevant so long asthey remain the same for both tests. ambient temperature is 20 degrees celsius. core frequency is 1405 mhz with the memory at 4001: effectively 8002. core voltage is 1.2 volts with current draw between 70 and75 percent of my limit.
the stock core frequency on these cards is1000 mhz, so i'm running a 33% overclock. core temperatures are 76 and 74 degrees. the maximum temperature difference, or "delta," is 56 degrees. i like to limit my maximum to 80. with these clocks, i could see well over 80 degrees on a hot day. let's see how things look after modding. ambient temperature is 23 c. both core temperatures are 71, for a delta of 48 degrees -- an 8-degree improvement. i should see a maximum of 78 degreeswith an ambient temperature of 30, which is about as hot as it ever gets where i live
this means that i can run 1.4 ghz as a 24/7 overclock on my air-cooled cards, just as i can run 4.6 ghz as a 24/7 overclock on my air-cooled, six-core cpu, as i demonstrated in the first video. how far you can overclock depends on theclimate where you live, and the component temperatures you're willing to accept.these temperatures and clocks work for me. incidentally, if you're wondering how iget these steady clocks and voltages, it's because i don't use overclockingsoftware like afterburner, precision, or nvidia inspector for anything exceptsystem monitoring or editing driver options. i make all of my performance adjustments by editing the video bios.
overclocking software will only adjust yourgpu core clocks and memory clocks, and various voltages, but you can improve performance by raising your memory controller crossbar, l-2 cache, and uncore frequencies as well. bios editing gives you access to thesesupplementary clocks. i'll explain all of this, and more, in mynext video, which will focus on settings, tweaks, and soft mods that will defeat latency, and yield the smoothest possiblegame performance. see you next time.
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