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How To Flashing k touch w68
- hello, and welcome toanother haas tip of the day. today we're going to take the guesswork out of setting up live toolson your haas turning center. i'm excited about doing sometips on our live tool lathes. but before we can make those videos, we have to show you how toset up these live tools. if these things aren't set up properly, we're going to struggle witheverything else that we do. let's head over to the assembly area
where we've got a naked lathe. we've pulled off thesheet metal so you can get a better view of that live tooling. well, we've made it back hereto our lathe assembly area. we've got a lathe here withthe sheet metal removed so we can see our turret better. this is a 12 station hybrid turret. that means that it hasroom for six bbi40 holders along with six bot tool holders.
now over here we've gotset up a vb24 turret. this is the kind of turret that you'd find on an ss machine. this one has 12 vbi40 holders along with 12 bot holders. now bot stands for bolt on tooling because they bolt alongthe outside of our turret. what does vdi stand for? well it's german, and i'm not going to try
and pronounce it for you. essentially it stands forsociety of german engineers. now the 40 in vdi40stands for 40 millimeters. that just means that theshank on our vdi tooling is 40 millimeters diameter. now these tools come in two basic flavors, axial, and radial. now our axial tools aregoing to drill or tap along the z-axis of our lathes
along with the spindle axis. our radial tools will drill, tap, mill, along the x-axis of our lathe. we're going to start off byshowing you how to set up our axial tools. our axial tool holdersare really easy to set up. in fact, from the factory, all we should have to dois go to our offset page, highlight the tool thatwe're trying to line up,
and press the f2 key. that's going to write thex-axis spindle center line to our offset page for that tool. now, trust, but verify. i want to make sure that value is correct, so what i'm going to do is i'm going to grab a coaxial indicator and i'm going to mount it in my spindle. we've got an adapter herethat makes this really easy.
you can make one for yourself. with this adapter, we can hold our coaxial indicator in almost any size collet, or even with a 3-jaw chuck. once we've mounted our indicator, we can come in and indicate off the id of one of our vdi tooling holders. i like to use a boring bar holder
because of its nice, ground id surface. you can also indicateoff the outside of a pin mounted into a vdi holder, or even off of a tool itself. when this indicator is in the holder, you can adjust it up and down until you find the x-axis center line. if you happen to have a y-axis laid, you can also make smalladjustments to the y-axis
to get your tools just perfect. so, what if you find out that your f2 x-axis center linevalue is not correct? well, if that's off for any reason, you can call your local hfo, they can come out and changethe parameters necessary to put that value back in line. okay, so we indicated offthe id of our tool holder. why didn't i just indicate off
the hole in our turret? there's a reason for this. the hole in our turret is not round. it's not a circle, it's actually an oval. what we've got here is aperfect 40-millimeter hole and about a millimeter below that we've got a second, larger hole that was put in for clearance.
if we try and indicate off that hole, we're going to have a really hard time, and whatever value we get is not going to beuseful for a tool offset. we must put a vdi holder into the turret and indicate off of that. when we put that vdi tool into our turret, we're going to be tightening an m10 socket head cap screw,
driving a wedge up against the side of our vdi tool holder. this is going to force our tool holder up against that perfect40-millimeter surface, as well as drive that vdi tool tighter up against the face of our turret. giving us a nice, solid hold. okay, so our axial tool holders are pretty straightforward.
setting up a radial tool holder can be a bit more complicated, but it's really importantthat we get this right. if our radial holders are off at all, our tool is not going toalign with our x-axis. this means our toolscould wear our prematurely or even break. this is why, on the back of all ofour radial tool holders,
they've given us some set screws. we're going to press a 10-millimeter pin into our turret. then, when we put our radial tools in we're going to have that pin sticking out that we can drive ourset screws up against to adjust the angle onour radial tool holders. i'm going to grab my pinand some tools, here, and we're going to go ahead
and drive a pin intothe turret on our lathe. these dowel pins actuallycome with your live tooling. they're typically about28-30 millimeters long. if you just grabbed a hammer and pounded them into the 10-millimeter hole on your turret, you might sink them in so far that there's not enough exposed pin for the set screws in your live tooling
to grab ahold of. we need 12 millimeters of exposed pin for those set screws to grab ahold of. so, what i've done hereis grab some round stock and i'm going to hitthe machine in a pocket, a slip-fit for this 10-millimeter pin, and i made that pocket12 millimeters deep. we're going to use this as an insert tool to drive this pin into the turret.
when we put these pinsin we need to be careful. there's an m6x1 threaded hole on one end. this hole is so we can yank the pin out later if we have to, so when you're putting your pin in, make sure the threaded hole is facing you, not facing toward the turret. got it? okay, great. i'm going to mount this in my adapter,
and drive in my pin. (hammer knocking) perfect, we now have 12millimeters of exposed pin. just what we wanted. this was a pretty typical pin install. let me show you our vb24 turret. if you have a super speed lathe, then there's a 6-millimeter step on the surface where we press our pins in.
we're going to want to press our pins in leaving 18 millimeters exposed. that's the 12 millimeters we need from this mounting surface, plus another 6 millimetersto account for this step. i've gone ahead and milled another pocket into my stock here, 18 millimeters deep. with this, we're going to end up
with 18 millimeters of exposed pin above this surface. and we're looking for that ideal 12 millimeters of exposed pin above our mating surface. if you're tapping in these pins manually, you're going to want to go slowly. if you go too deep, there won't be enough pin exposed
for our set screws to grab ahold of. and if you don't go in far enough, your pin won't be grabbingthe turret at all, and when you tighten those set screws, it's just going to wobble its way out. so with our pin properly installed, we can mount our radial tool holding and align it. after it's mounted
we're going to snug, justlightly, that m10 bolt. we'll then mount a ground shaft into our collet. i'm using an extension, you can use an dowel pin or even a tool. from here, i'm going to take anindicator on a mag base and indicate along theside of that ground shaft seeing how straight this holder is.
if it's not already straight, we can loosen and tighten these set screws against that 10-millimeter pin. once you've gotten this straight, you'll want to lightly tighten both set screws against the pin. when done, you're going to go ahead and finish tighteningthat m10 bolt on the side. so that's it.
that's how we align ourradial tool holders. one last thing before we show you how to touch off your tools. what if you need to get these pins out? there's some easy methods. the easiest way is justto grab an m6x1 bolt and thread it into thatthreaded end of your pin. once that's done, we're going to use an actual pin puller.
you can find these on theinternet for about $65. all we have to do is lockit over the head of the bolt and slide. if you don't have an actual pin puller, you can just grab a socket, an m6 bolt and some washers. place that over the dowel pin, tighten the bolt, and it'll draw the pinright out of the turret.
well, that's it. let's go back to our machine and start setting some offsets. we've made our tool straight, so now all we have todo is touch them off. typically for end millsused in live tool holders, we're going to touch themoff along their center lines. now for an axial tool holder, this is pretty simple.
all we have to do issweep in the tool holder with an indicator dialed in on the tool. we've got our x and maybe our xy values. for the tip of the tool, we're going to touch thatoff along the z-axis, just like you would any other drill. radial tools can be alittle more complicated. we can't reach the centerline of that end mill, so what we're going to do
is touch off on the tip of the end mill along the x-axis, kind of like a normal turning tool, and for the z-axis we're going to touch off along the outer diameter of that end mill. then we're going to shift our tool offset by the radius. now, if we've done everything right,
i should be able tocommand my tool to z-0, and have the center line of that end mill line up perfectly withthe z-0 face of my part. this final tip is for those of you that would like to touchoff your radial live tooling using your atp arm, yourautomatic tool preset. we can do this. i've already brought my arm down, and i've jogged my end mill
just above and to theright of my probe tip. i've created a program in memory, and it's really got justone real line of code: m-134 p-800. this is going to start my live tooling with an m-134 at 800rpms, p-800. i'm using an m134, not an m133, because i want my live tooling to spin backwards, not forwards.
so with this program active in memory, i'm going to go to the ips probing page. i'm going to select "manual cycle" because i've already joggedmy tool above my probe, i'm going to use tool offset 9 because i'm probing tool 9, and here's the important part, i'm going to use tool tip direction 3. this is the same cycle we would use
for an od turning tool. it's going to come in from the right and come down in the x, which is going to work justgreat for our end mill. so i follow the directions on-screen, press f4 to record output to a program. now i just insert this code into my program right after my m134 and we're ready to run.
let me press "cycle start"and we'll see what it does. (beeping) that looked perfect. it touched off on the side of the tool and the tip of the tool on the x. but remember, we touched off on the od, the side of the tool. we really wanted totouch off on the center, but that wasn't possible.
so now we need to make an adjustment. we have to subtract the tool radius from our z tool offset. i'm going to go to my offset page, highlight tool 9, becausethat's the tool i used, and because i'm using a 1/2-inch end mill, i'm going to subtract .25from my z tool offset. this is going to put that radial live tool back on center instead of the left edge.
you should now be able to set up your live tooling with confidence. for more information on live tooling, be sure to download thelatest haas lathe manual from the haas diy site. now we mentioned earlierthat we are planning on making a bunch of tip of the day videos on live tooling topics. if you don't want to miss any of those,
and you don't, be sure to click on the subscribe button at the end of this video. that's it, and thanks for watching this haas tip of the day.
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