Download File Firmware and Flashtool plus Video Tutorial compressed:
do not forget there are some additional tips from me:
How To Flashing huawei ascend g615 u10
hi, i’m christopher from idoc, and today i’d like to show you how you can replace the battery of your huawei mate s on your own. this repair is kind of tricky because the battery is glued in place. other than that, you shouldn’t have too many problems because all the screws are the same length. you should plan on taking about 45 minutes for the whole process. you’ll need the following tools: a phillips screwdriver, a torx screwdriver, a suction cup, a pick, a steel laboratory spatula, a pair of tweezers and a spudger. i also recommend using a magnetic pad so you don’t lose any screws.
you can find these tools in our online shop. if you get stuck on one of the steps, you can also use the repair guides on our website, which include pictures. you can also use the comment function there to ask questions. have fun repairing your device. before you start the repair, it makes sense to turn off your device. press the sleep/wake button and then tap the display to confirm the command. before i can open the device, i have to remove the sim tray. insert the tool into the opening until the sim tray pops out, and then remove it from the device.
you have to tilt the display upward to open the device. but before you can do that, you have to remove two screws from the bottom. use a torx screwdriver. to open the device, i put my suction cup at the lower end of the display and push the pick in the opposite direction of how i’m pulling. lift the display very carefully because the fingerprint sensor on the inside of the back cover is still attached to it. disconnect it first by using the spudger to disconnect the contact from the logic board. note that the cable is lightly glued to the shield here.
detach it and then go ahead and remove it. now i disconnect the battery contact. first i have to remove these two phillips screws. once i’ve removed the two screws, i have to take off the cover over the battery contact and other contacts. the cover is hooked on in two places. the best way to detach it is to insert the tweezers in the middle, then undo one hook after the other and remove the cover. now i just have to disconnect the battery contact.
vorsichtig mit dem spudger unter den kontakt haken gehen und diesen lã¶sen. carefully insert the spudger below the contact and disconnect it. dafã¼r trenne ich zuerst den steckkontakt mit dem spudger. ich hake vorsichtig dort herunter und lã¶se den kontakt. als nã¤chtes nehme ich mir die pinzette und entferne vorsichtig die kopfhã¶rerbuchse. als nã¤chtes entferne ich die rã¼ckkamera. its contact is hidden under a little cover, which i have to take off first. i insert my tweezers below the cover and then remove it. then i can very carefully disconnect the plug contact using the spudger.
now i just have to lift out the camera. next, i remove the control buttons for the screen and the volume. first i have to carefully disconnect the contact. make sure you don’t yank the contact too hard because the cable could tear. now i still have to carefully detach the cable that’s glued to the enclosure. i insert the steel spatula between the buttons and the enclosure very gently so i don’t break anything. now i can remove it. before i can remove the logic board, i have to disconnect all the contacts from the board.
i start with the display cable and carefully disconnect it using the spudger. then this wide ribbon cable that goes to the lower board, and then the antenna cable that goes under the board. now i unscrew the four screws holding the board in place. these four phillips screws are all the same length, so you can’t really mix them up. even if you do, nothing bad will happen. now that i’ve removed the screws, i can remove the board. it’s still hooked onto the enclosure, so i have to unhook it. i put the spudger at this corner and push the board out a bit.
i do the same thing on the other side because there’s also a hook there. now i can carefully remove it. now i want to remove the lower board. first i have to disconnect the three contacts. as usual, i use the spudger to carefully detach them from the board. i can remove the long cable now, as well as the long antenna cable. there are also two phillips screws holding the lower board in place. i have to remove them and then i can take out the board. like the motherboard, this board is hooked on, so use the spudger to carefully detach the board. now i want to remove the battery.
it’s attached to the enclosure by two adhesive strips. they’re marked with the blue tabs here. i have to fold them up with the tweezers before i can get a hold of them. this part’s always a little tricky. now i’ve got it. i do one adhesive strip after the other. it’s best if you keep the strips as flat as possible and pull them out at as steady a speed as possible with a consistent amount of force so they don’t tear. so now we’ve removed the first one.
this one’s also a little stubborn. so now i have the first one, and here we go. this one tore, but it’s not the end of the world since we already removed one. now i just use the esd spudger as a lever to carefully pry under the battery. it’s starting to come loose and i’ve detached it enough that i’ll definitely be able to get it out. i can take off the rest here, but the point is, i got the battery out. because i used a new display for this video, there’s still some protective film on the device, which i’ll have to remove later. now i put the battery back in. it’s very important to stick the battery on so it won’t rattle around in the enclosure.
unfortunately, i don’t have any original replacement adhesive strips, so i took some from the iphone 5s and cut them to size. once again, they have a tab you can stick on. now i put them on so they stick to the outer edges of the battery. now i’m going to turn the battery over and i can take the protective film off the two tabs and stick them to the battery. if i want to remove it again, i can pull out the tabs again. now remove the protective film on the back, turn the battery over again and push it in all the way to this edge. drop it in and press it down to make sure the glue really sticks. now i reinstall the lower board. make sure the two microphones go in the two rubber sockets.
i also have to hook the board on in three places again. first i put it at the lower edge, and then i press it down. these cracking noises just mean that the board’s clicking into place. next, i have to attach the board to the device with two phillips screws again. i fasten them with the screwdriver and they hold the board in place. now that i’ve installed the lower board, i can reconnect the three cables. i start with the antenna cable. first i attach it to the lower board. it’s still roughly in the shape of how it goes in the enclosure, and i put it back in this guide.
as soon as it’s in there, i take the long ribbon cable. make sure the arrow’s pointing to the motherboard and the bend stops at the motherboard. i just press the contact onto the board. next, i press the contact for the speaker into the board. before i can install the motherboard, i have to remove two pieces of film: one for the front camera, and one for the proximity sensor or brightness sensor. then i can tilt the board to put it in. i have to make sure it gets hooked onto the hooks when i put it in. before i do that, i should bend the cables to the side a little so they don’t get caught or stuck under the board.
now i carefully position the board and press it into place, not too hard, but with a certain amount of force. now i have to screw the motherboard on again. i put in the four phillips screws and tighten them. now that the motherboard is attached, i can reconnect the cables. i start with the antenna cable that comes from the lower board. as you can see, sometimes the cable pops back out of the guide. just press it back in. then connect the longer ribbon cable. it curves a little, but don’t worry about that.
i finish up by connecting the display cable to the motherboard again. now i put the control buttons back in. they have holes for the tabs to go into. that makes them easier to install. then i just press them carefully into the enclosure frame. now i have to fold the cable over. there are two tabs here, too now i press the contact back into the board. then i put the rear camera back in the recess.
just carefully drop it in. connect the contact to the board again. the third step is installing the cover whose tab has to go into the shield. then i put the headphone jack back in. just make sure the two tabs go into the two holes. then you know it’s positioned right. once it’s in place, connect the contact. at this point, you can connect the battery to the board again. simply press the contact into the socket.
now i put the cover plate back on. it has tabs here and here. first i put it at the plate and press it down. then i use the tweezers to lift it a little in the middle because the other tab will only click into place if it’s slightly bent. then it’s done and i can screw it into place with the two phillips screws. just put them in and tighten them with the screwdriver. now that all the parts are installed in the display again, i can put on the back cover. first i have to connect the fingerprint sensor’s connector to the logic board. then i can go ahead and put on the display starting at the upper edge.
then i press it into the back cover slowly and gently, but with a certain amount of force. i press it on again, and then it’s put together. then i put the two torx screws back in to fasten the enclosure. now i put the sim tray back in. you’re all done now. i hope you enjoyed the repair. you can use the comment function to ask questions or provide suggestions and tips.
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