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hi, i'm tony northrop and i'm in the snowtoday because i had a stunning digital photography reader ask me to providemore information about camera metering, metering modes and exposure compensation. so i waited for a fresh snow here inconnecticut because snow is one of the perfectexamples for a situation that requires you to change your camera's defaultmetering. so, to explain this a little more i'll take a couple of sample shotsof chelsea. now and take a look at that no, take a look at that picture and especially the histogram, because it's really important that you review the histogram anytime that thereis an exposure challenge, like a bright
environment or a dark environment. thishistogram is almost entirely in the left half of the frame, and that's no good atall, that means our picture is underexposed. now, you can't just trustyour eye here because a million times i've looked at the preview of an image on mycamera when i'm not shooting and thought it was ok, then i get back to my computerand see the histogram and realize it's wildly underexposed. you can't trust yourcamera's lcd, you always need to look at the histogram. so when you see a histogram like thisthat doesn't touch the right side, that means the photo's under exposed. and as arule of thumb, when you're in a bright
environment like this, you need to add atleast a stop of exposure compensation but when it's mostly snowy like this, you need toadd a couple of stops of exposure compensation. so i will add two stops ofexposure compensation and shoot again. that turned out much better. now, that's really all you need to understandabout metering and exposure compensation. take a shot, look at the histogram. if itdoesn't touch the right side of the frame then you need to add one or two orthree stops of exposure compensation. shoot again and if the histogram is perfect thenyou're good. back in the olden days when we shot film,you didn't get a chance to immediately
review it and then reshoot. and as aresult cameras developed these really complex and flexible metering systemsand they're still in our modern cameras. and in fact, the camera manufacturersoften use them to advertise advantages of their models vs competing models buti don't think they're that important. because nowadays i think the easiestthing to do is just to take a shot and make an adjustment based on what you see. however, i do want to give you an overviewof your camera's different metering modes. now the one that your camera is probablyset up with by default is- they have
different names. some companies call them evaluativemetering, some art zone metering but they look at the entire frame andintelligently decide what the exposure should be. so they'll look at yourforeground subject and the background subject and try to guess. that's what mycamera was set up with when it managed to underexpose that shot by a couple ofstops, so it doesn't work perfectly. the way yourcameras metering system works is it tries to figure out what's important inthe frame and then make that a middle gray, right in the middle of thehistogram. now, in the olden days you'd
even hold up a grey card and meter offof that grey card and you'd feel pretty good about it. but it doesn't work wellin an environment like this where everything is white. you see the snow, i don't want it toappear gray, but that's the way it appeared in the first shot. i want the snow to appear white becausethat's how it looks to my eye. it should be almost all the way to the right side ofthe histogram and that's why my camera mis-exposed it and that's why i had toadjust it with exposure compensation. now, another way to fix that besidesusing exposure compensation is to use
spot metering. now, many cameras have different types ofspot metering. they might call it center weighted or partial metering. truespot metering takes a very small part of the frame and meters off of just that.sometimes it's linked to the focusing point, but usually it's right in the middle ofthe frame. so i'll take a shot with spot metering on and no exposure compensationand we can see how that works. now you can see in that shot i meteredoff of chelsea's face which, because of her darker skin tone is about what middlegray should be. the background is brighter, so the camera actually adjustedthe exposure so where i put the spot
metering sensor would be in the middleof the histogram. the snow, being brighter, ended up on the right side of thehistogram for a perfect exposure. i don't really like spot metering though.first, it works differently in different cameras, so you really have to learn howyour camera works and experiment with it to get it to work right. second, it meters off of a very smallpart of the picture and with moving subjects, where this might beparticularly useful, it's really easy to move to a dark orlight part of the subject. so for example, i try spot metering with flyingbirds.
what happens is, if i get the spotexactly on the flying bird the exposure will be perfect. but the next frame maybethe bird moves up or down a little bit or my camera's not perfectly centered onit, and the meters off the bright sky and the exposure drops way down because ittries to make the sky gray. maybe then meters off of a dark part ofthe bird and it moves the exposure way up. now i'd like to illustrate whathappens when you have a dark background. so let's take chelsea and move her in frontof some dark trees and we'll repeat this experiment. this isn't the most scenic spot for aportrait but it will serve for an
example here because it's got a nicedark backdrop. now, i'm going to retake this photo but iwant to remind you to please read through chapters three and four instunning digital photography because it has a ton of detailed information aboutexposure and the exposure square which includes aperture and shutter speed andall the camera settings that you need to understand to be able to work itproperly. so my camera's set to evaluative metering and no exposure compensation.i'll take another sample shot. if you look at that, chelsea's face is now overexposed. and the reason for that isthe camera included the dark background
in the metering, and it tried to bringthe background up to middle gray. chelsea's face is now brighter than thebackground, meaning it pushed that exposure up beyond the right side of thehistogram causing it to be blown out. now, it's really easy to detect if you lookat the preview and you enable blinkies, which i described in the book. so, becausei can see it blinking, i immediately knew that i needed to just adjust theexposure compensation down. i can also look at the histogram and ifi see the histogram climbing up the right side there, that means i need to dial down 1 or 2 stopsof exposure compensation. sso i'll just
dial in a couple of stops and retakethat picture. that was enough to fix it. so remember, when you have a brightbackground you need more light. if you have a dark background, dial yourexposure compensation down. it works exactly the opposite of the wayyou would think it would, but you don't need to memorize anything. all you needto remember is look at your picture after you take it, and examine thehistogram. then adjust the exposure compensation. even if you get it backwards, you'll figureit out after you take your next test shot.
thanks so much for watching my video, ihope you'll check out my book stunning digital photography which you can get atamazon or at sdp.io/store or any other place thatsells ebooks. now, this is the top rated photographybook in the world so it's worth checking out. the reviews at amazon say it alli think. if you have any questionss please don't hesitate to contact me. you can find meat facebook at northrup photography, there's a link down there in thedescription, or you can send me an e-mail tony@northrup.org. and also i askthat you please click like down below and subscribe if you'd like to see morevideos like this.
thanks.
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